Tag Archive: travel with kids


The Arena of Verona

My crazy boys in front of the Arena:)

Experiencing an opera at the Arena di Verona is a must-do.  The Arena is 2000 years old, and still in use!  I know from our visit to Lake Garda that 166 Cathars were captured in Sirmione, taken to the Arena di Verona, and burned at the stake in 1276…I’m glad to experience a performance at the Arena for a happier occasion!! We were advised by our Italian host to buy our tickets months in advance, so we purchased tickets to see Verdi’s opera Aida.

Sets for the opera.

Sets for the opera.

These photos were taken on our first day in Verona (Saturday).

Gulp!

Gulp!

The Arena is in Piazza Bra, inside the main gate as you enter Verona’s historic district. Next to the Arena is the neoclassical Palazzo Municipale.
Creeping on someone's wedding!

Sneaking a photo of someone’s wedding!

Boys just wanna have fun...

Boys just wanna have fun…

There’s a park in the middle of the piazza.

An eight year old's idea of a funny pose:)

An eight year old’s idea of a funny pose:)

We came back the next day (Sunday) to see the opera Aida.  We came a little early to see more of this lovely city.

Castelvechio Bridge

Castelvecchio Bridge

View from the bridge.

View from the bridge.

Castelvecchio  Castle was built in the 14th century.  It was both a residence and a fortress, including the brick bridge you see above.

The castle is now a museum, apparently with a good art collection. We just peeked in.

Castelvecchio Castle is now a museum, apparently with a good art collection. We just peeked in.

The clock tower.

The clock tower.

We continued wandering down the street, and came across this lovely little church.

We came across this lovely church called Chiesa San Giovanni in Foro.

Chiesa San Giovanni in Foro.

It was so quiet and peaceful...we were the only people there.

It was so quiet and peaceful…we were the only people there.

We continued to wander through the city.  See more photos of Verona here:

Verona (Day 6): so much MORE than Juliet’s Balcony!

At last it was time to go and claim our seats up in the nosebleed section of the arena.

At last it was time to go find seats up in the nosebleed section of the arena!  We rented cushions for 3 Euros apiece.  Advice: bring your own cushions!

We rented cushions for 3 euros apiece. Advice: bring your own cushions!

The performance started at 9:15pm.

The performance started at 9:15pm.

Verdi's 1871 opera set in Egypt...a love triangle.

Verdi’s 1871 opera…a love triangle set in ancient Egypt.

Aida is a captured Ethiopian princess who is in love with Radames, who struggles to choose between his love for Aida and his duty as the Pharaoh's celebrated military commander.

Aida is a captured Ethiopian princess who is in love with Radames.

Radames struggles to choose between his love for Aida and his duty as the Pharaoh’s celebrated military commander. The story gets even more complicated because the Pharaoh’s daughter loves Radames and is promised to marry him…but Radames loves Aida.

The story gets even more complicated because the Pharaoh's daughter loves Radames and is promised to marry him...but Radames loves Aida.

Let’s just say it has a tragic but spectacular ending!

Nate didn't make it all the way through, but the rented cushion came in handy.  The performance ended around 12:30 am...we were surprised it finished so late!

Nate didn’t make it all the way through, but the rented cushions came in handy.

The performance ended around 12:30 am…we were surprised it finished so late. It was well worth it.  Nate was a real trooper and walked sleepily back to our car. Another great day!

Stay tuned for posts about our day in Venice, staying in a beautiful restored farmhouse in the French countryside, and having an AMAZING day yesterday seeing Mont Blanc in the French Alps!

Juliet's Balcony.

Juliet’s Balcony.

Verona’s “claim to fame” for attracting tourists is being the setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. Now that I’ve experienced Verona for myself, I find it tragic that most tourists “do” Verona in a few hours, rushing in to take photos at Juliet’s balcony and then moving on to the next city!!  Verona really surprised me with how incredibly beautiful the city is, and how much there is to see and do here.  Before I tell you more, here are our own tacky tourist photos of Juliet’s House.

Check out this stern warning!!

Check out this stern warning!!

Look at the background behind us. What is it?

Look at the background behind us. What is it?

Although the house is  a major destination for tourists, it actually has no connection with Shakespeare’s characters….who were fictional and therefore never existed:)

Love messages, written on top of chewing gum shaped into hearts...yeesh!

Love messages, written on top of chewing gum shaped into hearts…yeesh!

The house itself is old, but the balcony was added in 1936.  The house was named Casa Guilietta (Juliet’s House) to attract tourists.

Couples add these locks as a symbol of their undying love...

Couples add these locks as a symbol of their undying love…

The balcony overlooks a small courtyard with a statue of Juliet. There is a huge amount of “love graffiti”. Visitors leave notes, as well as write their initials and those of their loved one in chewing gum… which they stick on the walls of the courtyard…risking a year’s imprisonment or a hefty 1039 Euro fine!

More love graffiti...

More love graffiti…

We asked our host if it was worth it to see the inside of Juliet’s House, and he told us that most people in Verona are annoyed by the “hype” of Juliet, the congestion of tourists near the “shrine”, and the fact that until recently, an employee was paid to answer love letters to Juliet from lovesick people from around the world. So we took his advice, and didn’t go inside.

Here's what our son thinks of all the lovey dovey stuff!!

Here’s what our son thinks of all the lovey dovey stuff!!

Apparently, if you pay the 6 Euro entry fee you will see a small collection of Renaissance frescos, and the bed from Zeffirelli’s 1968 movie, but not much more. We spent the money on gelato ice cream instead…a much better choice in Nate’s book!!

This was so interesting Nate gave them a coin!

This was so interesting Nate gave them a coin!

Ok, now we’re done with the annoying typical tourist stuff.  Come see the real Verona with us!

Look for the close up in the next photo.

Pizza del Erbe. Look for the close up in the next photo.

Verona was once one of the most powerful cities during the Roman Empire. The historic center is amazingly well preserved, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Beautiful balcony

Beautiful balcony!

Just another amazing statue!

This is the Lion of St. Mark, symbol of Venice.

Fun souvenirs!

Fun souvenirs!

Andy

This lead to another lovely square.

Verona was the home of Dante Alighieri, writer of the Divine Comedy. You can read more about Dante’s tumultuous life here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dante_Alighieri

That's Dante!

That’s Dante!

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Verona was also the setting for two more of Shakespeare’s works: The Two Gentlemen of Verona and The Taming the Shrew.

I wanted to sit here!

Nice place for a meal!

The scenic mausoleum of Arche Scaligere houses outdoor tombs of the Scaligeri lords who ruled Verona for hundreds of years.

Arch of Scaglieri

Arch of Scaglieri

statue

The architecture is stunning!

So, for those of you following along with us, this was Day Six of our European road trip.  I hope you enjoyed learning about Verona.  Coming soon will be posts about seeing an opera in Verona’s Arena, built in the 1st Century BC, as well as our trip to Venice.

Vicenza!

Vicenza! Look for the close up in the next photo.

Most people skip this beautiful town as they race around to northern Italy’s bigger attractions such as Venice and Verona.  But we were so glad that we didn’t! There were stunning architectural masterpieces scattered throughout the city…as you can see in the photos below.

Amazing detail!

Amazing detail!

The photos above, and the next seven that follow, were taken at Pizza dei Signori, which is the big central square of Vicenza.  It was the center of social and political life since the Roman Era!

Vicenza!

Can you find Nate and me at the base of the monuments? Look for the close ups in the next three photos.

Vicenza was founded by the ancient Venetos, then it passed to the Romans.

Goofing around:)

It was invaded by Barbarians (the real ones, not small children like this one who frequently forget their table manners) in late Roman times!

Posing.

It became a Dukedom under the Lombards, and later a County under the Franks.

Playing steal the hat and run!

Playing steal the hat and run!

It became a Free City-State in the 12th century.

More goofing around...

More goofing around…check out the close up in the next photo.

The tower is 230ft high. The basement was built in the 12th century, whereas the upper part of the tower was added in the 14th century.

Every self respecting European town seems to have a picturesque clock tower....although Prague's is the best of all!

Every self-respecting European town seems to have a picturesque clock tower….although Prague’s clock tower is the best of all!

Vicenza voluntarily came under the dominion of the  Republic of Venice in the early 15th century, and then enjoyed a long period of prosperity.

The architecture around the city was stunning!

The architecture around the city was stunning!

In the 16th century the architect Andrea Palladio turned Vicenza into a treasure of Renaissance architecture. His name is everywhere in the city!

You can see the Venetian influence.

You can see the Venetian influence.

So picturesque!

In the late 18th century Vicenza passed under Napoleanic rule.

This window box made my A list:)

Later, Vicenza passed to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Nikolas delighted this street performer by insisting that we give him a coin!

Nate delighted this street performer by insisting that we give him a coin!

In the 19th century Vicenza joined the Kingdom of Italy.

There were pallazos (palacial mansions belonging to the nobility) scattered throughout the city...this is one of them.

There were pallazos (palacial mansions belonging to the nobility) scattered throughout the city…this is one of them.

I hope this post will inspire anyone traveling in this area to make time to see this beautiful city…I’m glad we did!

The town of Sirmione, Lake Garda.

Scaliger Castle in the town of Sirmione, Lake Garda.

Friends in Prague highly recommended that we visit Lake Garda, and now I know why! It has a very Mediterranean vibe to it, even though it is in northern Italy.

We are very laid back travelers…we like sleeping late, having brunch and pottering around the flat.  We rarely get out before noon; and our host recommended that we get out in the mornings and evenings to avoid the midday heat. So we’ve been setting out mid-afternoon and coming home late…it suits our family of night owls!

First, we stopped for an evening picnic...it was about 5:30pm.

First, we stopped for an evening picnic.

No picnic is complete in Italy without wine! Classy coffee cups:)

No picnic is complete in Italy without wine! Although I doubt Italians would use coffee cups:)

After our picnic we went on to the old city area.

After our picnic we went on to the old city area.

This is what you see as you are walking up to the historic town on a peninsula.

This is what you see as you are walking up to the historic town on the end of the peninsula.

Lake Garda, including what is now Sirmione, was a favourite resort area for rich families from Verona since the 1st century BC! At that time Verona (where we are now staying) was the main Roman city in north-eastern Italy.

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This lovely spot was the scene of several invasions following the fall of the Roman Empire.

Entering the old town.

Entering the old town: Scaliger Castle…built in the 13th century.

The noble family of the Scaliger, also know as Scaligeri, were the rulers of Verona in the 13th and 14th centuries.

You can read about their turbulent family history here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scaliger

Look for the close up in the next photo.

Look for the close up in the next photo.

Everything was so colorful!

Everything was so colorful! Notice that the pizzeria is named for the Scaligeri family.

It was fun walking through the streets... mostly all pedestrian area.

It was fun walking through the streets… mostly all pedestrian areas.

The lake is lovely in the evening.

The lake is lovely in the evening.

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Scaliger Castle was part of a defensive network surrounding Verona.

I learned that Sirmione has had a very turbulent history because of its strategic location in northern Italy. The town has witnessed the struggles in the Middle Ages between the Ghibellines (emperor supporters) and Guelphs (Pope supporters). You can learn more about it here:

http://carneycastle.com/Sirmione/index.htm

Ok, I'm exercising extreme self control to limit the number of photos in this post!

This picturesque town has seen some gruesome things take place in its history.

Cathars (considered heretics by the Catholic Church) took refuge here in the mid-1200’s. However, the last 166 Cathars were captured in 1276 and taken to the Arena of Verona and burned at the stake. You can read about their story here:

http://grantouritaly.blogspot.it/2012/09/sirmione-sanctuary-for-heretics.html

Nice place to share a bottle of wine...

Nice place to share a bottle of wine…

I'm displaying my weakness for taking photos of cute balconies:)

I’m displaying my weakness for taking photos of cute balconies:)

Nate hates posing for photos so we bribed him with ice cream!

Nate hates posing for photos so we bribed him with ice cream!

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It’s amazing the smiles that can be obtained with the incentive of ice cream!

Now he was suggesting photo ops...

Now he was suggesting photo ops…

No day is complete without a visit to the gelateria!

No day is complete without a visit to the gelateria!

Enjoying the sunset and the aftermath of a sugar high from the ice cream)

Enjoying the sunset and the aftermath of a sugar high from the ice cream)

The sun sets on a perfect day on Lake Garda!

The sun sets on a perfect day at Lake Garda!

We loved Lake Garda and would love to go back to explore other places around the lake! For anyone who has been there, are there any other locations on Lake Garda that you’d like to recommend?

The Austrian Alps!

The Austrian Alps!

We have often found that the best and most memorable part of a holiday isn’t the places you see, but the people you meet. On Wednesday morning we packed up and said our good-byes to our Airbnb hosts.  It was our first time to use Airbnb, and we had a wonderful experience.  Out of respect for our hosts’ privacy I won’t post photos or use their  names.  However, I want to describe our experience with them, because staying in their home made our time in Bavaria exceptional!

When we arrived Monday evening after getting lost on the Romantic Road, they greeted us like friends.  They have a lovely home in a quiet, picturesque Bavarian village.  We had our own private bedroom and bathroom. Every morning our host provided us with a breakfast feast that would rival anything you’d find in a four star hotel! Our hosts are an expat family living in Bavaria.  They have three boys around Nate’s age.  When we arrived home after our day trip to the Neuschwanstein Castle, Nate ran off with the boys to play in the backyard…on the trampoline and in the woods surrounding the house. We had a great time getting to know this wonderful family, and greatly appreciate their fantastic hospitality!

We left late on Wednesday morning for our next destination….Verona, Italy! We passed through the stunning Austrian Alps.

We stopped here to snap a few quick photos.  Notice the camping photos at the

We stopped here to snap a few quick photos. Notice the camping photos at the bottom of the sign.

I want to camp here!

I want to camp here!

I call dibs on these chairs!

I call dibs on these chairs!

Not a bad way to get a little exercise before returning to the chairs.

Not a bad way to get a little exercise before returning to the chairs.

See what you would miss if you just speed by in your car?

See what you would miss if you just speed by in your car?

You could stop here for a bite to eat...but we didn't.

You could stop here for a bite to eat…but we didn’t.

Photos couldn't capture the beauty of the Alps!

Photos couldn’t capture the beauty of the Alps!

We drove past Innsbruck, Austria into the Piccole Dolomites…the mountain range located between the provinces of Trentino, Verona and Vicenza, in Northern Italy.  They were beautiful; different from the Austrian Alps because there were many terraced vineyards. We didn’t stop for photos as we were ready to get to Verona.

So, now I’m writing from the roof top terrace of our flat on the outskirts of Verona, complete with a view of the river.  Life is good!

The lovely town of Fussen!

The lovely town of Fussen!

After visiting Neuschwanstein Castle we headed to Fussen, the southern end of the Romantic Road.

Fussen began as a Roman trading fort. Its medieval town center is framed by the majestic Alps, rising above the  the river Lech, and it is surrounded by lakes. It has a late-gothic castle, baroque cathedrals and the oldest preserved fresco in Bavaria.

Watch for the close up in the next photo.

Watch for the close up in the next photo.

Many of the buildings have paintings on them.

Many of the buildings have paintings on them.

Cute cafes were everywhere!

Cute cafes were everywhere!

These wrought iron signs seem to be typical, too.

These wrought iron signs seem to be typical, too.

The town is immaculate!

The town is immaculate!

Unfortunately, we didn't have time to visit the castle.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit the castle.

This is another place we'd love to spend more time in.

This is another place we’d love to spend more time in.

Below is St. Mang’s Basilica. It has the oldest fresco in Germany in its crypt, dating back to 980.

The clock tower.
This church was beautiful!

This church was beautiful! Kid in motion…

The organ!

The organ!

We then drove back to the small Bavarian village we were staying in, and went for dinner at a local restaurant recommended by our Airbnb hosts. We tried authentic Bavarian dishes and the local beer. Our waitress was very friendly and we muddled through with our minimal German:)

The food was excellent!

The food was excellent!

The next day (yesterday) we left for Verona, Italy.  We drove though spectacular Alpine scenery…past Innsbruck, Austria…into the Dolomites, and on to Verona.

Today we are doing a day trip to Lake Garda…gotta run!

Neuschwanstein Castle!

Neuschwanstein Castle!

Guidebooks say that this is the world’s most famous castle…the model for Disneyland’s castle.

This was at the beginning of the hike up to the castle.

This was at the beginning of the hike up to the castle.

“Crazy” King Ludwig II is famous for his two fantasy fairy-tale castles: Neuschwanstein Castle and Howenscwangau Castle.

We hiked up a canyon next to a waterfall.

We hiked up a canyon next to a waterfall.

They are Germany’s biggest tourist attractions!

Notice the bridge above Andy. We are about halfway to the bridge at this point.

Notice the bridge above Andy. We are about halfway to the bridge at this point.

The location of the castles is stunning!

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We finally arrived at the top, a 35 minute climb…we worked off our amazing, enormous breakfast provided by our wonderful Airbnb host!

According to Lonely Planet guidebook, King Ludwig planned this castle with the help of a help of a set designer instead of an architect!

There's Andy, waving his arms on the balcony.  There were tons of tourists there!

There’s Andy, waving his arms on the balcony. There were tons of tourists there!

It looks like a medieval castle but was building was begun in 1869, but never finished.

Must have a photo in front of the castle, even with random tourists posing for their own photos:)

Must have a photo in front of the castle, even with random tourists posing for their own photos:) At this point, Nate was ready to go back to our hosts’ home to play.

Apparently, King Ludwig only lived here for less than 180 days.

The castle actually looked very new up close. It had just been restored earlier this year.

The castle actually looked very new up close. It had just been restored earlier this year.

Next, we walked to Marienbrucke Bridge, the bridge I pointed out about Andy a few pictures ago.

Next, we walked to Marienbrucke Bridge, the bridge I pointed out above Andy a few pictures ago.

On the way to the bridge we passed this view of the place where King Ludwig lived as a boy.

Here's Howenschwangau Castle, where crazy King Ludwig lived as a boy.  Not a bad place to grow up!

Howenschwangau Castle… not a bad place to grow up!

Here's the view from the bridge!

Here’s the view from the bridge!

Then we walked down the hill to Hohenschwangau, the touristy town at the bottom of the hill.

Then we walked down the hill to Hohenschwangau, the touristy town at the bottom of the hill.

The picture above shows how far up we climbed to get to the castle!

The view of the castle from the town.  It shows how far we climbed to get to it!

The view of the castle from the town.

Again, this is a must-see if you are ever in this area!  Our day wasn’t even finished at this point.  We left here to go to Fussen: the final, southern-most town on the Romantic Road.  Pictures coming on the next post.

Gotta run, we are off to Italy now!

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Dinklesbuhl, Germany

The best adventures sometimes happen when things don’t go according to plan!  Here’s a photo of us waiting in Prague Airport for our flight to Cologne.

This is ALL we travel with...no checked bags!

This is ALL we travel with…no checked bags!

The original plan was to arrive in Cologne at 10 am, pick up our rental car, and drive to Bavaria, a five hour or so drive to our first night’s accommodation. We wanted to stop for lunch in a town somewhere on Germany’s Romantic Road.

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The whole town was full of these lovely medieval buildings.

Well, we had a fiasco with our rental car (more about that later) and we didn’t get out of the airport until noon.  We put in Dinklesbuhl in the car navigation system, but then decided to scratch the plan since we got such a late start, and go straight to our accommodations in Bavaria. So we reset the destination, and had an arrival time of 6pm.

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This was just one roof top!

At about 5:50pm, we discovered we were no where near where we thought we were in Bavaria.  Somehow Dinklesbuhl must have stayed on as a via point!

Look for the close up in the next photo.

Look for the close up in the next photo.

So, we were lost!  We didn’t have a map, so we couldn’t see the big picture of where we were in Germany, compared to where we wanted to go.

We were sad we only had a short time to spend here.

We were sad we only had a short time to spend here.

But since we were just a few kilometers away from Dinklesbuhl, we decided to stop and see it.

Notice the tower in the background.

Notice the tower in the background.

It was an excellent decision!

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We definitely want to come back here!

So I jumped out of the car and took some hurried photos.

Look for the close up in the next photo.

Look for the close up in the next photo.

It was definitely too short a time for this lovely place!

There were several buildings with paintings on them

There were several buildings with paintings on them

Be sure to visit this lovely town!

Be sure to visit this lovely town!

So then we found a gas station and purchased a map, and proceeded to our destination; another two hours through the beautiful German countryside.

Andy said it was the best driving day of his LIFE!!  There was a sticker on our rental car that said it had been tested for 210 kilometers an hour…we were driving at 100mph and getting passed by VWs racing by.  Andy said he pushed it to 200 kilometers per hour (120 mph) at one point:)  There’s no speed limit on the autobahn, so it was legal!

We arrived at our destination at 8:40pm, much later than expected, but it was a lovely misadventure.  We are staying in a lovely little village in a beautiful home we found through Airbnb.  Life is good!

I’ll try to do a post every day or every other day, so sign up for updates if you’d like to follow our adventures!

Hi, I’m Nate.  This is the end of my second year of living in Prague.  It’s been another very fun year of adventures!

In September I celebrated my birthday with my friends from school.

Cake, friends, presents...what can be better?

Cake, friends, presents…what can be better?

In October we went for a week to Slovenia.  That’s part of the old Yugoslavia. It’s next to Austria, Hungary, Croatia, and Italy.

This is the view from the castle on the cliffs above Lake Bled.

This is the view from the castle on the cliffs above Lake Bled.

See the little island near the end of the lake with the church spire?

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Dad rowed us to the island.

We rang the church bell!

We rang the church bell!

Another day Dad drove us through the Julian Alps.

Look at THAT!  Pretty cool place for a picnic!

Look at THAT! Pretty cool place for a picnic!

We climbed around a five hundred year old castle built into a cliff. Read about the robber baron who got shot by a cannonball while sitting on the toilet:

Slovenia: one of our all-time favorite European countries!

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Doesn’t it look like a place from Lord of the Rings?

In December we celebrated Christmas TWICE!! Once in California and once in Milwaukee!

At my Auntie Robin's house on Christmas morning!

At my Auntie Robin’s house on a sunny California Christmas morning!

In Milwaukee I got to see my sister, grandparents, uncles, aunts and cousins. I got to meet my new twin cousins!

I got to hang out with my big sister, Sam.

I got to hang out with my big sister, Sam.

In February we visited our Turkish friends.  We had a blast!  We ate tons of great home cooked food. We went to a cafe on the Bosphorus.

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See the cat behind us?

We went on a cruise on the Bosphorus with friends from Prague.  It was a VERY rainy day!

Hanging out with the Myers.

Later that day we tried dessert with chicken in it!!

The red one is the Turkish flag.

The red one is the Turkish flag.

After Istanbul we went to visit our other Turkish friends in Ankara.  It was so fun!

Istanbul is amazing!

Istanbul is cool!

In April we went to Seville, Spain for our Easter Break.  Our friend Ana Maria and her family showed us the Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions.

Mom says this tradition is hundreds of years old!

Mom says this tradition is hundreds of years old!

You can read about our adventures in Seville here:

Celebrating Semana Santa in Seville!

This is the procession in front of the float,

This is the procession in front of the float.

Next, we went to Granada at the end of March into the first week of April.

The Alhambra!

The Alhambra!

Mom and Dad slept late every day.  They let me watch lots of Spanish cartoons on TV. I love Cosmic Cat! You can see more photos of Granada here:

The Alhambra: a photo essay

It was fun exploring the Alhambra, but we got drenched at the end!

It was fun exploring the Alhambra, but we got drenched at the end!

One day we went for a day trip to Cordoba to see the Mezquita.

It was a mosque built in the 900's.

It is a mosque built in the 900’s on the ruins of a Visigothic church from the 600’s.

See, it looks like a mosque, right?

See, it looks like a mosque, right?

But there's a big cathedral that pops out of the middle of the mosque!

But there’s a big cathedral that pops out of the middle of the mosque!

The cathedral was built in the 1200’s after the Spanish kicked out the Moors.

You can read about more Spain adventures here:

Renting a car in Europe: Six lessons learned

In May we went to Herrnhut, Germany for a weekend retreat with our friends from church.

The view from the prayer tower.

The view from the prayer tower.

Just being silly!

Just being silly!

June was a CRAZY month! Prague got flooded and my school was shut down.  I went to school in a hotel for a week! Then we had visitors from India.  Next, Sydney and her family come to stay with us and we took them to the Summer Fayre.  It was a blast!

i got launched in the air!

I got launched in the air!

Walking home with Sydney after Summer Fayre.

Walking home with Sydney after Summer Fayre.

Sydney and her family are traveling around the world for two years!  You can read about their adventures here:

http://travel-junkies.com/

It’s been a really fun school year.  I’m excited for summer vacation.  On Monday we leave on a road trip to Germany, Italy and France. Then we’ll come home for five days, and after that we’ll go to Israel.  It’s going to be fun!

What? Bones in a church??

What? Bones in a church??

Last September we visited the “Bone Church” in Kutna Hora with my friend, Elsa.  It was such a strange, creepy place!

Ahhh, another quaint European church...not!!

Ahhh, another quaint European church…not!!

Looks can be deceiving. It looks picturesque and peaceful from the outside.  But on the inside it is no ordinary church.

The graveyard on the church grounds.

The graveyard on the church grounds.

It looks as if the Adams Family decorated the church! All of the decorations inside the church are made from human bones. Seriously??  Seriously!!

The next logical question is: Where did the bones come from?

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The chandelier contains every bone in the human body!

The bones come from the victims of plague in the 14th century, and from victims of the Hussite wars in the 15th century. Thousands were killed in these events; apparently they were buried in mass graves on the church property.

This is the coat of arms of the Swarzenburger family.

This is the coat of arms of the Schwarzenburg family, who used to own the church.

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Close up of the coat of arms above: worthy of Pirates of the Caribbean!

Why so many bones in one place, you ask??

The legend goes that the abbot of Sedlec monastery, known as Jindrich, brought back a handful of soil from his travels to Palestine, and sprinkled it on the cemetery. This made it a popular burial site for the nobility of Central Europe.

Creepy!

Creepy!

The number of burials outgrew the available space during the Thirty Years’ War in the 17th century. So they began to dig up the older remains and stored the bones in the chapel.

The decorations came from the bones of 40,000 people.

It is estimated that the chapel contains the bones of 40,000 people!

There’s an urban legend  that a monk went crazy and made things from the bones. Another legend is that the bones were first piled in geometric shapes by partially blind monks who were taking care of the chapel. Sounds like an answer my nephew Aaron would make up while playing the game Balderdash (a game where you make up crazy answers to questions and try to get the other players to believe you)!!

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The Schwarzenberg family bought the monastery in 1870, and they commissioned a local carver, František Rint,  to  get creative with the bones…as “a reminder of the importance of human life and inescapable death.”

Am I really posing next to a chandelier of human bones? Odd!!

Smile for the camera while we pose next to a chalice made of bones surrounded by skulls: STRANGE!!

You can find out how to get to Kutna Hora from Prague here:

http://www.frommers.com/destinations/prague/0063020751.html

A big thank you to my friend Elsa, for these photos. My camera battery had died on the way.

After you leave the church, shake off the creepy feeling, and walk on to the picturesque town of Kutna Hora, a UNESCO World Heritage site. I’ll write another post to show the “lovely side” of Kutna Hora!

While doing research for this post, I found this awesome quote by Greg, writer of  Outside Prague, a great website about the lesser known towns and cities of the Czech Republic.

http://www.outsideprague.com/kutna_hora/kutna_hora_daytrip.html

Greg writes:

“Visitors to the bone church often describe it as macabre, eerie or creepy and I once asked the lady at the desk if she ever felt bothered to be working there. She flipped her hand in a dismissive way and said “Pfft! They’re only bones, they won’t hurt you; it’s the living who scare me”.

Good point.”