Tag Archive: Europe


Old Town Square

Old Town Square

This is our third Christmas season in Prague.  There are Christmas markets that spring up all over Prague in December, and the most beautiful one of all is in Old Town Square.  When I first came here, I was used to the US Midwest hibernation…when the temperature plummets, people stay indoors.  I was used to going from the house to the garage to the car to my destination.  It isn’t uncommon for people to circle a parking lot several times to find a spot closer to the mall entrance, or wherever it is we need to go.

During my first winter here in Prague, I was surprised to see how many people walk all over the city, particularly the center and shopping areas.  They go not just to accomplish shopping errands, but also to walk, talk with friends, and enjoy the atmosphere. The cold temperatures don’t seem to deter the crowds; people just bundle up, and walk !!

It’s a whole new way of life here in Prague, and I really enjoy it.  In the US, we had two cars and drove everywhere.  A car is a necessity in the vast majority of US cities, suburbs  and small towns (although I’ve never lived in New York or other cities with good public transport).  Here in Prague we don’t own a car.  We go to school, work, the grocery store, errands…everything…by public transport.  And we love it!  The public transport system is excellent: prompt, easy to figure out and navigate. I often feel like I’m a Disneyland tram, riding through the beautiful streets of Prague!

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I’ll admit, there are days where it is really cold, and I miss the warmth and convenience of having a car.  But we have no desire, nor need, to buy a car.  If needed, taxis (from a reliable company) are quick and inexpensive: 150-300 crowns for a ride across town ( $7-$15).

Old Town Square is always bustling with life throughout the year; it has an especially festive atmosphere when the Christmas markets go up.

Jan Hus presides over the festivities, as always.

Jan Hus presides over the festivities, as always.

For the past three years we always head to the US to spend Christmas with family, so I’ve never experienced what Prague is like right at Christmas.  I’ve heard that there are buckets of fresh carp that appear all over the city as it is part of the Czech traditional Christmas meal.

Early December is always filled with lots of events at my son’s school, Christmas parties, and last minute gift buying. I guess that’s the same regardless of the country! Some day I’d like to go to a Christmas concerts in one of the lovely churches. I’ve also heard that the New Year’s Eve celebrations are wonderful. We often see fireworks out our window throughout the year (we live on  a hill); I can imagine that there must be many spectacular displays of fireworks on New Year’s Eve!

Tomorrow we are off to the US to spend time with family.  We are looking forward to it!  Good-bye, lovely Prague.  See you next year!

Château de Chenonceau

It looks like Andy is standing in front of a painted set!

We went to this lovely castle when we were staying in the Loire Valley when our daughter, Samantha, joined us in France in the summer of 2012. The Loire Valley is dotted with beautiful castles, but this was my favorite!

Venice...or is it?

Venice…or is it?

On Thursday we surprised Nate with a trip to Legoland, a day trip from Munich.  He was delighted, to say the least!  Besides lots of fun rides, they had lego replicas of several famous cities, Venice being one of them.  Compare with the photo below!

The real Venice:)

The real Venice:)

friends

friends

The best part of traveling for me isn’t the cool historical sights or beautiful nature….it’s the people we meet along the journey.   This past July, we had just finished a busy nine days of seeing many beautiful towns in Germany and Italy: Dinkelsbuhl, Fussen, Lake Garda, Vicenza, Verona, and Venice.  Then we packed up, and drove four hours to stay with our friends Brigitte and Louis, who live in a lovely home at the foot of the Alps, just outside Grenoble, France. We arrived just before sunset, and were treated to delicious home cooked French food with champagne.

The garden

Nate was delighted to have a garden to play in!

The next day we just wanted to chill out and hang around the beautiful garden and take in the views all around us.

The front gate

The front gate

Who needs to go sightseeing when this is out your front gate?  Just going for a walk down the street is “sightseeing”.  So that’s just what we did: Brigitte, Nate and I went for a walk.

Going for a walk

Our street

Just a few doors down, Brigitte’s neighbor has goats, chickens, donkeys, dogs, and rabbits.

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Brigitte’s neighbor wasn’t home so we continued on our walk.

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What a beautiful place!  Brigitte and Louis are very blessed to call this place home!  We headed back to their house, and stopped by the neighbor’s house who was now home.  Nate got to play on the tractor…..

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and pet a donkey…which was quite exciting for a city boy!

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We ran into Andy just as we arrived; he was heading out for a bike ride.

This is just outside the front gate.

This is just outside the front gate.

Brigitte and Louis invited us to eat lunch with them in their garden.  They thought we were a little crazy because as the week went on we wanted to spend a large part of it just hanging around their lovely home and garden.  Can you blame us?!!

Life is good here!

Good food, good cheese, good wine, good company…life is good!

We slept in every day, and rarely left the house before noon.  We went for a picnic next to a monastery that was just a short drive away.

We found a shady spot with a view.

We found a shady spot with a view.

The view!

The view! We were the only ones having a picnic, so we had it all to ourselves.

We shared the view with these friends:)

We shared the view with these friends:)

The monastery

The monastery

Just below the monastery.

Just below the monastery.

More stunning views as we headed "home".

More stunning views as we headed “home”.

We also enjoyed a couple evenings together with Brigitte and Louis’ next-door neighbors, with more great French cuisine and wine.  We had a great time talking, playing pool, and enjoying French beverages of all sorts, late into the night:)  Andy and Louis relaxed the next day, watching the Tour de France on TV.

The summer "dining room".

The summer “dining room”.

All meals included French wine, and were followed by French cheese.  My favorite quote (from Brigitte’s father, I think) I heard was ” a meal without cheese is like a beautiful woman with one eye!”

While staying with Brigitte and Louis we also did day trips to Grenoble, Annecy and Mont Blanc.  I’ll post photos in future blog posts.

It was difficult to say good-bye to our wonderful hosts and leave this beautiful home.

It was difficult to say good-bye to our wonderful hosts and leave this beautiful home.

If you get the chance to visit this part of France, take it!  You definitely won’t regret it!! Thank you, Brigitte and Louis for such wonderful hospitality!

The Pegasus fountain, where Julie Andrews sang "Do Re Mi" with the Von Trapp children.

The Pegasus fountain, where Julie Andrews sang “Do-Re-Mi” with the Von Trapp children in The Sound of Music.

Yesterday we took the train to Salzburg from Munich.  It was a lovely, sunny day.  Salzburg is such a beautiful city!  We walked all over the city, as it is very compact. The views from the fortress on the hill are stunning! It was a great day trip from Munich, but left us wanting to go back to explore it some more…sometime in the future. One day definitely wasn’t enough!

Utah Beach

Utah Beach, July 2013

The D-Day invasion of Normandy took place on June 6th, 1944. Utah Beach was the code name for the westernmost of the Allied landing beaches. If you continued walking down the beach, you would eventually  arrive at Omaha Beach, which saw the heaviest casualties of American soldiers (dramatized in the first scene of Saving Private Ryan). It was a sobering experience to walk on this beach, to imagine the hundreds of landing craft, and to remember the brave young soldiers who risked and gave their lives on the beaches of Normandy.

 

San Zeno Basilica

San Zeno Basilica

We just got back from our trip to Israel last night…it was an amazing trip.  We saw and did so much!  I didn’t have a chance yet to go through photos or keep up the blog. I learned from my failed attempt to do a post a day for our European road trip that keeping up while traveling isn’t realistic. So stay tuned for future posts on Italy, France and Israel!

This post is about the Basilica of San Zeno: a must see if you are in Verona. We went to find San Zeno Basilica at the recommendation of our Italian host.

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It was founded in the 5th century to house the remains of San Zeno, Verona’s patron saint.

There were hardly any tourists here; we almost had the place to ourselves! It’s a lovely, peaceful church. St. Zeno  is Verona’s patron saint because he was credited with converting the people of Verona to Christianity.

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San Zeno was born in North Africa.

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Many of San Zeno’s sermons survive today.

Baptismal font

Baptismal font: it’s more than 1000 years old!

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The church was rebuilt a few centuries later and was consecrated in 806 AD

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The church was later destroyed by Hungarian invaders!  Rebuilding began again in 963 AD.

The altar

What you see in the photos dates from the more recent reconstruction in the 12th and 13th centuries!

San Zeno

Statue of San Zeno.

Down in the crypt

The crypt dates back to the 10th century and contains a sarcophagus with the remains of St. Zeno.

the remains

According to tradition, this crypt was where Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet were married!

The courtyard

San Zeno died in 380, but he is still honored and remembered here.

Our Italian host also gave us the tip that Verona’s best ice cream could be found next to the basilica of San Zeno, so of course we had to try it!

Verona was a wonderful surprise for us…we had no idea what a fascinating city it is before we spent a week there.  You can read more about our stay in Verona here:

https://globalnomadfamily.com/2013/07/24/day-7-opera-at-the-1st-century-bc-arena-di-verona/

https://globalnomadfamily.com/2013/07/20/verona-so-much-more-than-juliets-balcony/

Verona is also a great city to use as a base for exploring other amazing cities.  We did a day trip to Venice (stay tuned for that post).  We also visited Lake Garda and Vicenza.  You can see the photos here:

https://globalnomadfamily.com/2013/07/13/day-four-picnic-at-lake-garda/

https://globalnomadfamily.com/2013/07/15/day-five-the-unesco-world-heritage-town-of-vicenza/

So, for anyone visiting northern Italy, don’t forget lovely Verona!

Kutna Hora!

Kutna Hora: view of St. Barbara’s Cathedral!

We are briefly back in Prague before leaving on our next set of adventures!  This post is especially for future guests arriving soon. Kutná Hora is a lovely day trip from Prague.

If you saw my post on the Bone Church in Kutná Hora, you may be intrigued enough to see it for yourself.  However, even if you think the Bone Church isn’t “your cup of tea” you should still go see Kutná Hora.  The historical town center and St. Barbara’s Cathedral is a UNESCO world heritage site.

Kutná Hora has not one, but several stunning cathedrals, which more than make up for the gruesome Bone Church!

Cathedral of Assumption of Our Lady and John the Baptist.

Cathedral of Assumption of Our Lady and John the Baptist.

The town began in 1142 with the settlement of  Sedlec Monastery, the first Cistercian monastery in Bohemia.

German miners began to mine for silver in the mountain region in 1260, which the miners named Kuttenberg. The mountain was part of the monastery property.

These are the relics of St. Felix, donated by Pope Benedict X!V in 1742 on the occasion of the monastery's 600th anniversary!

These are the relics of St. Felix, donated by Pope Benedict X!V in 1742 on the occasion of the monastery’s 600th anniversary!

Kutná Hora’s wealth was built on mining. There’s a legend that goes like this: when a lazy monk named Anton woke up from a nap in the monastery orchard, he found three pieces of silver sticking out from the ground near his face. Anton laid down his robe (‘Kutna’, in Czech) to mark the place. Anton’s fellow monks investigated further and discovered what was to become the silver mines. Kutná Hora would later become the richest silver mine in the Kingdom of Bohemia.

It was wonderful to wander the streets and see the fine architecture.

It was wonderful to wander the streets and see the fine architecture.

The prosperity of Kutná Hora silver mines reached its climax in the 14th and 15th centuries when the city became one of the richest places in Europe. It was one of the most important political and economic centers of Bohemia at that time, second only to Prague.

I have a weakness for taking photos of cute window boxes:)

My husband will confirm that I have a weakness for taking photos of cute window boxes:)

Unfortunately, we arrived too late in the day to take a tour of the silver mines.  I’ve heard that the tour is very interesting, so we will definitely go back!

It was fun to wander the streets!

St. James’ Church

St. James’ Church is one of Kutná Hora’s famous landmarks. Construction of St. James began in 1330, and was completed in 1420.

This is the Church of St. James, built in the 14th century.

Inside the Church of St. James, built in the 14th century.

Pope Martin VI declared a crusade against the Hussites in 1419, shortly before construction of St. James was completed. The Hussites were followers of Jan Hus, a Czech priest who was considered the first Church reformer because he lived before Luther and Calvin.

St. James was the principal parish church of medieval Kutna Hora.

St. James was the principal parish church of medieval Kutna Hora.

In 1420 Emperor Sigismund used Kutna Hora as the base for his unsuccessful attack on the Taborites (considered heretics by the Catholic Church) during the Hussite Wars…leading to the Battle of Kutna Hora. In that battle, the Taborites were encircled by the superior forces of Sigusmund; however, under the leadership of famous Czech general Jan Zizka they were able to break through the lines and escape.

St. Barbara's Cathedral in the background.

Thanks, Elsa, for these photographs!

According to Wikipedia, Jan Zizka is considered to be among the greatest military leaders and innovators of all time. He is one of six commanders in history who never lost a battle . There is an enormous statue of him in Prague, which can be seen from miles away. The surrounding area is called Zizkov!

All these photos came from Elsa's camera, since we forgot to recharge our camera before coming to KH.

On the way to St. Barbara’s Cathedral.

St. Barbara’s Cathedral was founded in the late 1300s by the rich mine owners of Kutná Hora. They were trying to compete with the grandeur of Prague’s St. Vitus Cathedral. Building plans were interrupted by the Hussite battles, so construction didn’t resume until 1482.

The stained glass windows are stunning!

The stained glass windows are stunning!

Kutna Hora passed to the Habsburg Monarchy of Austria in 1526. Things went downhill after that…the mines were flooded, insurrection against the Holy Roman Emperor brought harsh punishment, followed by plague and the Thirty Years War.  The city  was devastated by fire  in 1770. The mines were abandoned not long after.

The view from the balcony.

The view from the balcony.

Kutna Hora remained part of the Austrian Empire under the Hapsburgs during the 1800’s. It became part of Czechoslovakia after World War I, following the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

The fun angels:)

The fun angels on top of the organ!

For more information about Kutna Hora, including how to get there from Prague, look here:

http://www.outsideprague.com/kutna_hora/kutna_hora_daytrip.html

http://www.myczechrepublic.com/kutna-hora/getting-there.html

So, if you are in Prague for more than a few days, definitely make a trip to Kutna Hora…you won’t regret it!

The Arena of Verona

My crazy boys in front of the Arena:)

Experiencing an opera at the Arena di Verona is a must-do.  The Arena is 2000 years old, and still in use!  I know from our visit to Lake Garda that 166 Cathars were captured in Sirmione, taken to the Arena di Verona, and burned at the stake in 1276…I’m glad to experience a performance at the Arena for a happier occasion!! We were advised by our Italian host to buy our tickets months in advance, so we purchased tickets to see Verdi’s opera Aida.

Sets for the opera.

Sets for the opera.

These photos were taken on our first day in Verona (Saturday).

Gulp!

Gulp!

The Arena is in Piazza Bra, inside the main gate as you enter Verona’s historic district. Next to the Arena is the neoclassical Palazzo Municipale.
Creeping on someone's wedding!

Sneaking a photo of someone’s wedding!

Boys just wanna have fun...

Boys just wanna have fun…

There’s a park in the middle of the piazza.

An eight year old's idea of a funny pose:)

An eight year old’s idea of a funny pose:)

We came back the next day (Sunday) to see the opera Aida.  We came a little early to see more of this lovely city.

Castelvechio Bridge

Castelvecchio Bridge

View from the bridge.

View from the bridge.

Castelvecchio  Castle was built in the 14th century.  It was both a residence and a fortress, including the brick bridge you see above.

The castle is now a museum, apparently with a good art collection. We just peeked in.

Castelvecchio Castle is now a museum, apparently with a good art collection. We just peeked in.

The clock tower.

The clock tower.

We continued wandering down the street, and came across this lovely little church.

We came across this lovely church called Chiesa San Giovanni in Foro.

Chiesa San Giovanni in Foro.

It was so quiet and peaceful...we were the only people there.

It was so quiet and peaceful…we were the only people there.

We continued to wander through the city.  See more photos of Verona here:

https://globalnomadfamily.com/2013/07/20/verona-so-much-more-than-juliets-balcony/

At last it was time to go and claim our seats up in the nosebleed section of the arena.

At last it was time to go find seats up in the nosebleed section of the arena!  We rented cushions for 3 Euros apiece.  Advice: bring your own cushions!

We rented cushions for 3 euros apiece. Advice: bring your own cushions!

The performance started at 9:15pm.

The performance started at 9:15pm.

Verdi's 1871 opera set in Egypt...a love triangle.

Verdi’s 1871 opera…a love triangle set in ancient Egypt.

Aida is a captured Ethiopian princess who is in love with Radames, who struggles to choose between his love for Aida and his duty as the Pharaoh's celebrated military commander.

Aida is a captured Ethiopian princess who is in love with Radames.

Radames struggles to choose between his love for Aida and his duty as the Pharaoh’s celebrated military commander. The story gets even more complicated because the Pharaoh’s daughter loves Radames and is promised to marry him…but Radames loves Aida.

The story gets even more complicated because the Pharaoh's daughter loves Radames and is promised to marry him...but Radames loves Aida.

Let’s just say it has a tragic but spectacular ending!

Nate didn't make it all the way through, but the rented cushion came in handy.  The performance ended around 12:30 am...we were surprised it finished so late!

Nate didn’t make it all the way through, but the rented cushions came in handy.

The performance ended around 12:30 am…we were surprised it finished so late. It was well worth it.  Nate was a real trooper and walked sleepily back to our car. Another great day!

Stay tuned for posts about our day in Venice, staying in a beautiful restored farmhouse in the French countryside, and having an AMAZING day yesterday seeing Mont Blanc in the French Alps!

Juliet's Balcony.

Juliet’s Balcony.

Verona’s “claim to fame” for attracting tourists is being the setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. Now that I’ve experienced Verona for myself, I find it tragic that most tourists “do” Verona in a few hours, rushing in to take photos at Juliet’s balcony and then moving on to the next city!!  Verona really surprised me with how incredibly beautiful the city is, and how much there is to see and do here.  Before I tell you more, here are our own tacky tourist photos of Juliet’s House.

Check out this stern warning!!

Check out this stern warning!!

Look at the background behind us. What is it?

Look at the background behind us. What is it?

Although the house is  a major destination for tourists, it actually has no connection with Shakespeare’s characters….who were fictional and therefore never existed:)

Love messages, written on top of chewing gum shaped into hearts...yeesh!

Love messages, written on top of chewing gum shaped into hearts…yeesh!

The house itself is old, but the balcony was added in 1936.  The house was named Casa Guilietta (Juliet’s House) to attract tourists.

Couples add these locks as a symbol of their undying love...

Couples add these locks as a symbol of their undying love…

The balcony overlooks a small courtyard with a statue of Juliet. There is a huge amount of “love graffiti”. Visitors leave notes, as well as write their initials and those of their loved one in chewing gum… which they stick on the walls of the courtyard…risking a year’s imprisonment or a hefty 1039 Euro fine!

More love graffiti...

More love graffiti…

We asked our host if it was worth it to see the inside of Juliet’s House, and he told us that most people in Verona are annoyed by the “hype” of Juliet, the congestion of tourists near the “shrine”, and the fact that until recently, an employee was paid to answer love letters to Juliet from lovesick people from around the world. So we took his advice, and didn’t go inside.

Here's what our son thinks of all the lovey dovey stuff!!

Here’s what our son thinks of all the lovey dovey stuff!!

Apparently, if you pay the 6 Euro entry fee you will see a small collection of Renaissance frescos, and the bed from Zeffirelli’s 1968 movie, but not much more. We spent the money on gelato ice cream instead…a much better choice in Nate’s book!!

This was so interesting Nate gave them a coin!

This was so interesting Nate gave them a coin!

Ok, now we’re done with the annoying typical tourist stuff.  Come see the real Verona with us!

Look for the close up in the next photo.

Pizza del Erbe. Look for the close up in the next photo.

Verona was once one of the most powerful cities during the Roman Empire. The historic center is amazingly well preserved, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Beautiful balcony

Beautiful balcony!

Just another amazing statue!

This is the Lion of St. Mark, symbol of Venice.

Fun souvenirs!

Fun souvenirs!

Andy

This lead to another lovely square.

Verona was the home of Dante Alighieri, writer of the Divine Comedy. You can read more about Dante’s tumultuous life here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dante_Alighieri

That's Dante!

That’s Dante!

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Verona was also the setting for two more of Shakespeare’s works: The Two Gentlemen of Verona and The Taming the Shrew.

I wanted to sit here!

Nice place for a meal!

The scenic mausoleum of Arche Scaligere houses outdoor tombs of the Scaligeri lords who ruled Verona for hundreds of years.

Arch of Scaglieri

Arch of Scaglieri

statue

The architecture is stunning!

So, for those of you following along with us, this was Day Six of our European road trip.  I hope you enjoyed learning about Verona.  Coming soon will be posts about seeing an opera in Verona’s Arena, built in the 1st Century BC, as well as our trip to Venice.